Warming up to San Francisco

The San Francisco Bay Area is the first place I lived in as a new bride. This was back in early 2007. My husband LOVES San Francisco. The party scene, the vibe, the pulse. So when he moved out his bachelor pad in Santa Clara to Southern San Jose after we got married, he went into SF withdrawal. From partying in the city a few times to week to once or twice a month. Looking back, I do feel quite sorry for him. Regular partying got replaced with more nights at home or hanging out with friends. Dinners in SF were rare, the drive was too long. We dined out frequently but in local places in and around San Jose. Within a few months, H put his foot down. We might live in a beautiful gated community but it was way too South! So we moved (this was out first of 5 moves thus far) to Sunnyvale. Closer to SF.
We started frequenting Mountain View downtown and quickly became regulars at the Amarin - their Thai corn cakes and curries are beautiful. Shiva's had a fair Indian buffet though it was their spicy dum alu that we truly enjoyed. Sometimes we would go to chic Palo Alto and grab a burrito at Andale or laze over a coffee at University Cafe.
Surprisingly, when I first visited San Francisco, I didn't care too much for it. I didn't understand what the fuss was all about. It was February, and it was a gray and rainy day. We went to all the touristy spots and even took the Golden Gate Bridge across to Sausalito. All gloom. But come May and the clouds parted to reveal undulating streets that afford gorgeous panoramas of the glistning bay. Genteel charm, liberal mindsets, lively nightlife and of course, sumptuous food...San Francisco is all of this and more. As I watched the fog descend over the Golden Gate Bridge, I left my heart behind.
A splendid assortment of cultures makes for the true appeal of this city. To get a feel of the real 'San Fran', as the locals call it, stroll through its various neighbourhoods. One of the most enjoyable ways of taking in the local colour is sampling the mind-boggling array of cuisines – both traditional and hybrid - available here. Over the couple of years that we stayed there, I came to acquaint myself with its foodie delight, its wealth of high-quality, affordable choices as well as celebrated restaurants. We celebrated our first anniversary at Trattoria Pinocchio. It's impossible not to be seduced by the vibrant allure of North Beach. Also appealing is the Marina district. Walking hand in hand along the shore is special. Another restaurant we frequented  is La Salsa Fresh Mexican Grill on Pier 39. We would grab our food from the counter and head to their outdoor seating overlooking the ocean and Alcatraz. Good times. And this walk down memory lane is incomplete with a mention of Dosa. Located in the Mission district of SF, this one was a tad heavy on the pocket but worth every dollar.
I won't say that SF is my love. It's not. My loves are Bombay and Minneapolis. But now after 6 years of marriage, sitting in a cozy home in Pune, I look back fondly to my time in SF. It was a time when I got to know the man who has come to be my love. Those years weren't out of a romantic movie though. They were flecked with arguments and adjustments to a new person, a new way of life. But fall in love we did, in that sparkling city by the bay.

Eating Indian in SF

If there's one aspect where the San Francisco culinary scene falls short, it's the availability of good quality and tasty Indian food. Sure there are a sprinkling of Naan-n-Curry serving run-of-the-mill greasy and spicy Indian/Pakistani fare but for anything beyond that, you'll be playing safer if you head to the neighbouring town of Sausalito or maybe even to the South Bay.

There are however a couple of exceptions to this. Dosa is a not to be missed South Indian specialty restaurant. With a typically SF casual vibe, this chic restaurant serves a spicy Chettinad curry and coconut rice. Beautiful. The dosas are crisp and delightful - love their tangy tomato chutney. India Oven in the Outer Richmond neighbourhood is loved for its tandoori preparations made with tender meats. The vegetable korma is especially robust with nuts and farmer's cheese. Another winner is Chutney. If you're lucky enough to find parking and a place to sit, you'll find that the food is simple yet flavourful though a tad leaning towards pleasing the international palate. The malai kofta, prepared in a rich, lip-smacking gravy is not to be missed, nor is the alu-mutter. Steer away from the chana masala though which tasted banal and bordering on stale.

Pic: erinskitchen.blogspot.com

SF Eating: The Haight

While parts of The Haight in SF still evoke the hippie culture of the '60s, most of it has been transformed into one of San Francisco's premier commercial centers with high-end boutiques and vintage-clothing shops, second-hand stores, quirky book and music stores and hip restaurants.
If you find yourself in the area in time for brunch, People's Café has some great options. They make a mean 3-egg omelette stuffed generously with avocado, crisp bacon and feta cheese and also offer a variety of crepes, sandwiches, fresh juices, bagels etc.

Some of the city's finest Middle Eastern food can be found at Kan Zaman, which is also a great place to entertain friends and out-of-towners. The vegetarian combo of dolmas, tabouleh, baba ghanoush, hummus, falafel bullets and pita is highly recommended as is the succulent sheesh kebab. A special weekend treat is a show put up by belly dancers who swirl away gracefully. Another treat to top off the evening is the hookahs, filled with your choice of flavored tobaccos.
Afterwards, you could swing by The Alembic for a nightcap. Modern is meshed with rustic with a lot of recycled woods giving off a cozy feel. They specialize in micro-distilled liquors and the house cocktails have some unusual twists. If rum is your poison, then Hobson's Choice is your destination. There are more than 110 kinds of rum imported from the Virgin Islands, Haiti, Anguilla and Puerto Rico, with about 80 percent of them being hard to find elsewhere. Bartenders will mix specific rums into cocktails like Mojitos and Carpirinhas.
Ask any local and you'll be told that San Fran is all about its neighbourhoods. Each one is unique and distinct from the other. So whether its sashimi or gnocchi or crepes you desire, turn the corner and partake in the many culinary riches on offer. The only downside in this city of plenty is deciding where to eat.

Pics: sfgate.com

SF Eating: The Embarcadero and The Marina

The Fisherman's Wharf on The Embarcadero is often dismissed as a touristy attraction with overrated restaurants. While this may be true for some, it's definitely not a blanket rule for all the eateries present here. Your visit will surely be incomplete without sampling something from the wide assortment of seafood available here.
If you only have time for one restaurant, The Franciscan should be it. It gives off the feel of a luxury cruise ship with views of the bay and Alcatraz. The chefs dish up interesting combinations like the seafood brochettes with ginger-cilantro sauce or sautéed halibut with a sweet pea and sherry sauce. Also highly recommended are the crab cakes and the pasta with rock shrimp, eggplant and spicy marinara is a good bet as well. A great place for brunch is Delancy Street Restaurant. Enjoy delicious crepes, pancakes and a variety of egg preparations on the open air patio that looks right over the San Francisco Bay and the Bay Bridge. An interesting fact about this restaurant its community service aspect – it employs recovering addicts and criminals.


Another favourite is Boudin Sourdough Bakery and Café (pic above). Ideal for a quick lunch of clam chowder and a sandwich or for shopping for sourdough breads, the bakery also sells cookbooks, wines and condiments. If you have some time, take the tour of the museum and bakery where, much to the amusement of indulgent onlookers, the bakers toss up sea animals from sourdough. Should you find yourself in the mood for some Mexican fare, stop by La Salsa Fresh Mexican Grill on Pier 39 and don't let its non-assuming ambience deter you. Call for a Baja Fish Taco or an Original Gourmet Burrito or Nachos and head to their outdoor seating overlooking the water. And make sure to grab some of the delicious salsas from the elaborate salsa bar.
Another winner for Mexican food is Andale's in the vibrant Marina district. Complete with full bar, a mesquite grill, wood burning fireplace, outside seating and weekend brunch, it is easy on the pocket as well. The vegetarian burrito made with black beans, guacamole, cheese, salsa ranchera and delicious cilantro rice is a charmer. As the salsas tease your palate, the freshness of the ingredients and the warm and colourful ambience of the restaurant will leave you wanting more.
It's finally time for the chocolate lovers to rejoice! Your visit to the Wharf will be incomplete without the Ghirardelli Chocolaterie and Café . Highly recommended are the 60 per cent Cacao Dark Chocolate with Caramel Filling and Citrus Sunset. The adjoining desert café whips up some not-to-be-missed delights as well.
Craving some sushi? Chaya Brasserie, known for fabulous French-Japanese Cuisine, excellent sushi, stunning design, while offering sweeping views of the Ferry Building and the Bay Bridge. A perfect way to end your day would be to sip a cocktail, sitting on one of the picnic style tables on the outdoor patio of Americano Restaurant and Bar.

Pics: cmsalter.com, stayinsf.com

SF Eating: Ferry Building Marketplace

Located within one of the city's most recognized landmarks, The Ferry Building, this marketplace is bustling with restaurants and several purveyors of food-related merchandise. Swing by on a weekend morning and stroll through the waterfront farmers' market and take delight in the organic produce, coffee and pastries.
Savour some Vietnamese delicacies and sip the signature cocktails at the nationally acclaimed Slanted Doors.
Choose from a selection of 50 teas at the elegant Imperial Tea Court. A one-stop destination for mushrooms, Far West Fungi, carries a wide selection of culinary (both fresh and dried)mushrooms, medicinal mushroom supplements, and also mushroom logs to grow your own at home.

San Francisco Fish Company redefines "fish market" with their 18-feet long display cases filled with fish and seafood and live crab and lobster tanks. The menu includes items such as whole poached salmon, lobster pot pie, seafood lasagna, Ohlone smoked salmon, fresh sushi and house-made fish stock. Visitors can arrange to have items shipped home — anywhere in the world.
At the McEvoy Ranch Olive Oil store, you can buy the oil for which proprietor Nan McEvoy was named Food Artisan of the Year by Bon Appétit in 2003 – a blend of six Tuscan olive varieties which contribute to the award-winning depth of flavor in the finished oil. The shop also offers other cult favorites like the Meyer Lemon Marmalade, Lisbon Lemon Curd, Cured Olives, Mille Fleur Honey and handmade olive oil soaps.

Pics: sftours.com, cityprofile.com

SF Eating: Chinatown

In this densely packed and colourful pocket of San Francisco, culinary treats range from $2 dim sums (at Imperial Palace) to roast pig to shrimp noodles. Make a stop at Chinatown's oldest bakery, Eastern Bakery and witness a rarity – names of the goodies actually written in English! Famed by Bill Clinton's visit in 1996, the bakery offers unusual treats like black bean cake, steamed chicken (cocktail) bun and pork buns. An all-time-favourite with San Franciscans is the 100-year-old Sam Wo, which stays open till 3am. Recommended are the deluxe raw-fish salad, wonton soup with BBQ pork and the fried noodle house chow mein with bean sprouts and beef or pork. Make time to visit the Golden Fortune Cookie Company and nibble on the crispy treats that incidentally originated in San Francisco.

Pic: ohlala.org

SF Eating: North Beach

La Dolce Vita it is. As the city's Italian heritage lives on, North Beach holds allure for locals and tourists alike. With its high density of ristorantes, cafes, delicatessens and lively bars and nightclubs, it is ideal for both, a leisurely afternoon or a night on the town.
The long line is worth the brunch that awaits you at Mama's on Washington Square. Don't miss the Monte Cristo, eggs Benedict, house-made jams and 10 types of French toasts made with sourdough baguettes, banana bread or wheat bread.

Combine munching on wood-fired pizzas or calzones with people watching at the upbeat bistro-cum-trattoria, Calzone. The Stinking Rose: A Garlic Restaurant is a tribute to garlic. Be ready for a dining experience with a pungent twist as you sample specialty dishes such as bagna calda and garlic ice cream. At the popular espresso bar Caffe Puccini, the pasta menu is a fairly new addition. Their hearty marinara sauce is worth your visit. In the triangular-shaped Trattoria Pinocchio, savour a glass of Pinot Grigio Cesari with one of their many house-made pastas like the Gnocchi Enzo which is served with a rich gorgonzola sauce.
Need a java boost? Head to Caffe Greco and enjoy your cappuccino with some lip-smacking-good tiramisu.
North Beach has its share of non-Italian food as well, like for example, the adjoining restaurants, Citizen Thai and Monkey Noodle Bar. The chic Citizen Thai, reminiscent of a Buddhist temple, serves an impressive roasted duck curry in a hollowed pineapple and a tantalizing soft shelled crab while The Monkey Bar offers street treats like noodles and stir-fries.

Pics: wsisf.com, members.virtualtourist.com, planetware.com

Food and the city

I have traveled a fair bit, studied and lived in cities across the world. This can get chaotic. Even unsettling at times. The one common thread that binds these myriad experiences continues to be food. For me, it's the starting point to discover a new city. As a restaurant critic, I am quick to map out a city, check out the popular spots, pay homage to the jewels and munch at the off-the-beaten track eateries. The way a city eats gives me a handle on its pulse. And once I know its pulse, I'm at home. But when I'm not working and just dining for pleasure, I tend to revisit the same restaurants, eat the same dishes. Maybe this provides some grounding, a comfort factor. I don't know what it is. Right from when I was studying at Stony Brook, I had this restaurant that I frequented. It was a Mexican grille near my campus called Green Cactus. I would almost always have the nachos with extra guacamole. A decade has passed but I can still recollect the smoky taste of the roasted tomato salsa like I had it for lunch today. In every city after that, I have these restaurants and dishes that I keep going back to.
Food and the city are intertwined. They define each other. They tell stories of the people, of love and longing, of adventure and of finally, coming home.  

Foodie's picks of the week

Cafe Magic at Zeno, Minneapolis Uptown
(DiSaronno Amaretto, Bailey's Irish Cream and Kahlua stirred into Zeno coffee)

http://fusionmpls.com/

Cornmeal spoon bread and at Don Pablo's, Maple Grove

http://www.donpablos.com/

Spicy Kung Pao stir fry at Big Bowl, several Twin Cities locations

http://www.bigbowl.com/index.html

Foodie's top 2 what-to-avoid this week

Pizza at Red Savoy Pizza, several Twin Cities locations

Why? The pizzas were so overloaded with cheese that that was pretty much all you could taste. And once the pizza was no longer steaming hot, it started to get chewy real fast. The sauce (whatever little was there) was also pretty average and the prices were on the steep side when compared to other takeaways like Papa Johns or Sbarro's.
http://www.redssavoyhugo.com/

Mango Sikarni at Namaste Cafe, Minneapolis Uptown
Why? The desserts at this otherwise lovely restaurant have a lot of room for improvement. The Mango Sikarni is sour and tastes very similar to mango yogurt (Sikarni is traditionally a delicate and rather complicated preparation) and just adding cashews and raisins on top (like it was at Namaste Cafe) does not necessarily make it any richer.
http://namastechai.com/